Day 37 - 322 miles
NOTE: I am finally getting around to finishing these last two days of the blog in late December - almost four months later!
It seems strange writing this now, three and a half months later, but I remember it like it was yesterday.
I was so happy to be back in California. I am STILL happy, even though I write these words this evening from Dun Laoghaire, Ireland.
Sometimes it takes being away from people and places to appreciate them more.
I awoke for the last time in a motel room. I was kind of excited to get going, as this would be my last day on the road (I thought).
I hadn't seen the Pacific Ocean in over five weeks. As soon as I left "Americas Best Value Inn," I hit the little espresso stand across the road. After a bit of caffeinated fuel, as well as topping up my faithful GS with some unleaded fuel, we were off again. Down the main street on US-101, and around the corner, and there she was, the beautiful blue Pacific.
I immediately ran into a lady - an Aussie who I have no photos of, unfortunately - she had flown all the way to...I can't quite remember where...maybe it was Vancouver, BC. Anyway, she'd been at it about a week. She had bought a new Honda Shadow, and was working her way down the coast to Los Angeles, where she was planning on taking some convoluted route across the States, not unlike myself. We kind of met up all day, and shared stories, and I gave her a few tips I'd picked up along the way. She took a cool picture of me ON MY BIKE. I don't have too many of those.
US-101 follows the coast in a fairly spectacular way down to Arcata. After that, it goes in along Arcata Bay, and then slightly inland from the main coastline as it passes through Eureka. After Eureka, it heads well inland. This desolate part of the coast where there is no road, all the way down to where State Route 1 heads inland to join US-101 at Leggett, is known as the Lost Coast. It's an area I've always wanted to explore, but that would have to wait for another day...
Once we were inland, away from the "Lost Coast," the weather warmed up considerably. I had most of the heavy gear on up to this point, and was able to drop a layer. The road was really fantastic along this stretch. Nice long curves, up and down hills, but on divided highway that I pretty much had to myself. I was really stoked at this stage, and just loving being back in my own 'hood!
Part of this road passes by the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. That particular stretch of US-101 used to actually BE the Avenue of the Giants, but in the 1960's a bypass was built, and now you have to turn off 101 to drive through the redwoods. I duly did, and spent some time walking around, taking pictures, and generally contemplating on how bloody amazing the place is. There's such an awesome "peace" in these giant redwood forests - I can't think of any other way to describe it. I spent quite a while here...it was time to move on. I was getting hungry too.
I stopped in Garberville for "lunch" a little after 4PM. It was weird being back here. I had been up here earlier in the summer with my "dear" friend Lauren and her family, camping by the Eel River. They go every year, and it's a pretty trippy place....very "Humboldt County" if you get my drift.
I had a sandwich and some soup in a rather laid back cafe in Garberville. It took AGES for them to serve anyone they were moving so slowly. You can't really be in a hurry in Garberville. Things run on an entirely different schedule. In fact, there is no schedule. You just get things "when you get them."
I was kind of itching to get home to San Francisco, and I had a decision to make: there was a junction coming up. I could stay on 101, and I would be home in San Francisco in four hours. Or, I could take the turn for California Highway 1, back onto the coast. If I took Hwy 1, it would be much longer. Also, I would pass through the Russian River area and my also very dear friends Darragh and Yvonne and my god-daughter Lily. I spoke with Yvonne on the phone. She was excited to see me, but knew how much I wanted to get back to the city, so didn't push me too much. I decided for the city, and hung up. As soon as I did that, I thought, "You know what, dude? You've come all this way. You drove the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island. You took the detour out to Apostle Islands on Lake Superior and drive back in the dark in the fog. You drove the Icefields Parkway in the late afternoon with no other traffic on the road. You drove through the Canadian Rockies in the worst weather you've ever experienced, period. You're seriously going to wimp out on California Highway 1, just because you want to get home tonight?"
FUCK THAT!!! I immediately called Yvonne back and said, "Expect me for dinner."
I drove south to Leggett, and duly took the turn off for California Highway 1. The road from Leggett down to the coast, is only about 20 miles, but it has to be some of the craziest windiest road I have ever driven on. It seemed like it took forever, but it must have taken close to 40 minutes to actually reach the coast. And gosh, it was so worth it.
California Highway 1 from Rockport down to Jenner, where I turned off, is some of the wildest and most beautiful, desolate coastal road anywhere. It's really spectacular and beautiful. If you live in the Bay Area and have never come up this far, do it some time. Take two or three days. Stay somewhere along the way. You won't regret it.
Notice I said, take two or three days? Why is that? Because the road is very slow and very winding. It took me much longer than I thought. I was doing some quick calculations in my head, and soon realized I be doing well to get to Jenner before dark. As it turned out, by the time I got to Point Arena it was almost dark - the sun was about to set in the ocean. I decided I'd come this far, I might was well take a detour, and drive out to the Point Arena Lighthouse.
It was nice to contemplate my whole journey there at the lighthouse for a few minutes. To think that a few weeks earlier, I had been all the way out at the northeastern-most point of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, staring out at the Atlantic Ocean. Now here I was, probably my last moment truly "alone" on this trip, and I'd come all that way. It was a good feeling, and one of those "moments."
By the time I stopped for a while at the lighthouse, and took a few pictures, it was almost dark. I put back on the warmer layers further down the road. As I drove back down Hwy 1, I stopped one last time to look out at the setting sun. I thought of that song by the Eagles - California really is the Last Resort. How we take care of it, and what we make of this beautiful place is in our hands. Then I was off for what I thought would be a "quick" run down to Jenner, and inland to Darragh and Yvonne's place in Monte Rio.
I had driven the road from Jenner up to Point Arena many (like 15) years before. I didn't remember it being so long! It's only 50 miles or so, but it seemed to take forever. It was also dark. However, I was pretty relaxed. At one point there were a few cows wandering by the side of the road - free range - but I saw them and managed not to have a "deer moment." They also seem to be a bit smarter than deers, and know to stay on the side of the road.
I eventually made it to Jenner. I turned inland on familiar roads. Hwy 116 I was well used to - past Duncan's Mills where we would sometimes go to the Blue Heron for breakfast or dinner, past the turnoff for Moscow Road, and finally into the little town of Monte Rio.
I turned into Darragh and Yvonne's driveway a little after 9PM. I was really excited to seem my friends. They are like family to me, and it was a "family" moment. These are times you'll always remember.
For once, even though I was a bit late, I wasn't late. Yvonne said the dinner was "just" ready. The timing was perfect.
We spent a great evening recounting tales of the journey, and just kind of saying "Wow!" It was good to be back. I had a vague notion of driving back to San Francisco that night after dinner, but my dear friends were having none of it. "You're NOT driving home tonight, Macker - GOT IT? That's just ridiculous." Those were Yvonne's words. I wasn't going to argue with her.
With a belly fully of food and a happy heart, I went to bed and dreamed of redwood forests.
Tomorrow, would have to wait.
Onwards!
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