Crescent City, CA, to Monte Rio, CA, via US-101 S/Redwood Hwy and CA-1 S/Shoreline Hwy (Sunday, August 29, 2010)

Day 37 - 322 miles

NOTE: I am finally getting around to finishing these last two days of the blog in late December - almost four months later!

It seems strange writing this now, three and a half months later, but I remember it like it was yesterday.

I was so happy to be back in California. I am STILL happy, even though I write these words this evening from Dun Laoghaire, Ireland.

Sometimes it takes being away from people and places to appreciate them more.

I awoke for the last time in a motel room. I was kind of excited to get going, as this would be my last day on the road (I thought).

I hadn't seen the Pacific Ocean in over five weeks. As soon as I left "Americas Best Value Inn," I hit the little espresso stand across the road. After a bit of caffeinated fuel, as well as topping up my faithful GS with some unleaded fuel, we were off again. Down the main street on US-101, and around the corner, and there she was, the beautiful blue Pacific.

I immediately ran into a lady - an Aussie who I have no photos of, unfortunately - she had flown all the way to...I can't quite remember where...maybe it was Vancouver, BC. Anyway, she'd been at it about a week. She had bought a new Honda Shadow, and was working her way down the coast to Los Angeles, where she was planning on taking some convoluted route across the States, not unlike myself. We kind of met up all day, and shared stories, and I gave her a few tips I'd picked up along the way. She took a cool picture of me ON MY BIKE. I don't have too many of those.

US-101 follows the coast in a fairly spectacular way down to Arcata. After that, it goes in along Arcata Bay, and then slightly inland from the main coastline as it passes through Eureka. After Eureka, it heads well inland. This desolate part of the coast where there is no road, all the way down to where State Route 1 heads inland to join US-101 at Leggett, is known as the Lost Coast. It's an area I've always wanted to explore, but that would have to wait for another day...

Once we were inland, away from the "Lost Coast," the weather warmed up considerably. I had most of the heavy gear on up to this point, and was able to drop a layer. The road was really fantastic along this stretch. Nice long curves, up and down hills, but on divided highway that I pretty much had to myself. I was really stoked at this stage, and just loving being back in my own 'hood!

Part of this road passes by the Avenue of the Giants in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. That particular stretch of US-101 used to actually BE the Avenue of the Giants, but in the 1960's a bypass was built, and now you have to turn off 101 to drive through the redwoods. I duly did, and spent some time walking around, taking pictures, and generally contemplating on how bloody amazing the place is. There's such an awesome "peace" in these giant redwood forests - I can't think of any other way to describe it. I spent quite a while here...it was time to move on. I was getting hungry too.

I stopped in Garberville for "lunch" a little after 4PM. It was weird being back here. I had been up here earlier in the summer with my "dear" friend Lauren and her family, camping by the Eel River. They go every year, and it's a pretty trippy place....very "Humboldt County" if you get my drift.

I had a sandwich and some soup in a rather laid back cafe in Garberville. It took AGES for them to serve anyone they were moving so slowly. You can't really be in a hurry in Garberville. Things run on an entirely different schedule. In fact, there is no schedule. You just get things "when you get them."

I was kind of itching to get home to San Francisco, and I had a decision to make: there was a junction coming up. I could stay on 101, and I would be home in San Francisco in four hours. Or, I could take the turn for California Highway 1, back onto the coast. If I took Hwy 1, it would be much longer. Also, I would pass through the Russian River area and my also very dear friends Darragh and Yvonne and my god-daughter Lily. I spoke with Yvonne on the phone. She was excited to see me, but knew how much I wanted to get back to the city, so didn't push me too much. I decided for the city, and hung up. As soon as I did that, I thought, "You know what, dude? You've come all this way. You drove the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island. You took the detour out to Apostle Islands on Lake Superior and drive back in the dark in the fog. You drove the Icefields Parkway in the late afternoon with no other traffic on the road. You drove through the Canadian Rockies in the worst weather you've ever experienced, period. You're seriously going to wimp out on California Highway 1, just because you want to get home tonight?"

FUCK THAT!!! I immediately called Yvonne back and said, "Expect me for dinner."

I drove south to Leggett, and duly took the turn off for California Highway 1. The road from Leggett down to the coast, is only about 20 miles, but it has to be some of the craziest windiest road I have ever driven on. It seemed like it took forever, but it must have taken close to 40 minutes to actually reach the coast. And gosh, it was so worth it.

California Highway 1 from Rockport down to Jenner, where I turned off, is some of the wildest and most beautiful, desolate coastal road anywhere. It's really spectacular and beautiful. If you live in the Bay Area and have never come up this far, do it some time. Take two or three days. Stay somewhere along the way. You won't regret it.

Notice I said, take two or three days? Why is that? Because the road is very slow and very winding. It took me much longer than I thought. I was doing some quick calculations in my head, and soon realized I be doing well to get to Jenner before dark. As it turned out, by the time I got to Point Arena it was almost dark - the sun was about to set in the ocean. I decided I'd come this far, I might was well take a detour, and drive out to the Point Arena Lighthouse.

It was nice to contemplate my whole journey there at the lighthouse for a few minutes. To think that a few weeks earlier, I had been all the way out at the northeastern-most point of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, staring out at the Atlantic Ocean. Now here I was, probably my last moment truly "alone" on this trip, and I'd come all that way. It was a good feeling, and one of those "moments."

By the time I stopped for a while at the lighthouse, and took a few pictures, it was almost dark. I put back on the warmer layers further down the road. As I drove back down Hwy 1, I stopped one last time to look out at the setting sun. I thought of that song by the Eagles - California really is the Last Resort. How we take care of it, and what we make of this beautiful place is in our hands. Then I was off for what I thought would be a "quick" run down to Jenner, and inland to Darragh and Yvonne's place in Monte Rio.

I had driven the road from Jenner up to Point Arena many (like 15) years before. I didn't remember it being so long! It's only 50 miles or so, but it seemed to take forever. It was also dark. However, I was pretty relaxed. At one point there were a few cows wandering by the side of the road - free range - but I saw them and managed not to have a "deer moment." They also seem to be a bit smarter than deers, and know to stay on the side of the road.

I eventually made it to Jenner. I turned inland on familiar roads. Hwy 116 I was well used to - past Duncan's Mills where we would sometimes go to the Blue Heron for breakfast or dinner, past the turnoff for Moscow Road, and finally into the little town of Monte Rio.

I turned into Darragh and Yvonne's driveway a little after 9PM. I was really excited to seem my friends. They are like family to me, and it was a "family" moment. These are times you'll always remember.

For once, even though I was a bit late, I wasn't late. Yvonne said the dinner was "just" ready. The timing was perfect.

We spent a great evening recounting tales of the journey, and just kind of saying "Wow!" It was good to be back. I had a vague notion of driving back to San Francisco that night after dinner, but my dear friends were having none of it. "You're NOT driving home tonight, Macker - GOT IT? That's just ridiculous." Those were Yvonne's words. I wasn't going to argue with her.

With a belly fully of food and a happy heart, I went to bed and dreamed of redwood forests.

Tomorrow, would have to wait.

Onwards!

Bellingham, WA, to Crescent City, CA (Saturday, August 28th, 2010)

Day 36 - 591 miles

Believe it or not, this was my biggest mileage day so far. Almost 600 miles. It probably was 600 miles when you add in the detour to Salem Honda/BMW in Salem, Oregon.

My back tire was getting pretty worn down. I noticed it in Alberta, and thought, "Yikes! Where did that all go?" I got new tires, front and rear, before I left San Francisco. By the time I got to Bellingham, I was starting to push it a bit. It probably would have got me to San Francisco okay, but you run a greater risk of punctures, as well as aquaplaning in the rain. Better safe than in an accident and sorry. Rain was forecast today for southern Oregon, near Grants Pass, as well as the very northern part of California, near Crescent City, where I was headed. I needed a tire, kind of badly.

Big shout-out here to Don Borcea back in San Francisco. Don has been my "technical advisor" for this trip, and I don't think I could have done it - certainly not as easily nor as comfortably - without his help and assistance. Don is great for tips - those little things you forget, that matter a lot - and useful knick-knacks that just make travelling on a bike a lot easier. He loaned me some great gear items for this journey.

I called Don last night, and he scouted out a few BMW places for me on the route today. I was up early this morning...well, early for me...8AM. I called Salem Honda/BMW, I think second - the first crowd didn't answer. Sean Henthorn, at Salem Honda/BMW, was very helpful and open to taking me whatever time I got there. Sean is a great guy. They have a great shop.

I hit I-5 South, about 9:45AM. It was moving, but fairly heavy-flowing traffic, all the way to Seattle, and the same down to Tacoma, and Olympia, and really didn't lighten-up until after Centralia, getting into the southern part of Washington state. I didn't realize I-5 was this busy, this far up. It's three lanes each way, much of the route. Shows how "California-centric" I am, I suppose!

I refueled, pushed on through Portland, and then made my way to Salem Honda/BMW in Salem, Oregon. Sean immediately came out to greet me, and got me a soda and we shot the breeze about all kinds of stuff while they fit my new tire. Sean persuaded me to go with the Michelin Anakee 2, as they didn't have the Dunlop I was using previously. I like the look of the Anakee, and it looks more "crossover" than the Dunlop - probably better off-road or on gravel. I'm certainly not an expert in this area, and unless you're really pushing the limits, I think it's probably hard for the average person to tell on normal roads.

The forecast was for "occasional" showers further south. It was 4:45PM or so, by the time I left Sean & Co. I went and got something to eat, and as I suited-up into the rain gear while I ate my "burrito" in the gas station forecourt, I had an interesting conversation with a rather unlikely-looking classical guitar player. By the time I got on the road again, it was 5:30PM. I had my room booked in Crescent City though, and I was determined to get there tonight.

As I moved south through Oregon, the scenery started to look more like I was used to. The sun was quickly heading down and towards the west to my right.

I hammered it out down I-5 to Grants Pass. I decided upon Crescent City for the day's destination, and tonight's stay, as I wanted to come down the California Coast as a welcome home present to myself tomorrow. Also, US-101 and the Golden Gate Bridge, would be a nice way to finish the journey.

Getting from I-5 to Crescent City and US-101, meant taking US-199 over the Siskiyou Mountains in the dark. It wasn't too bad at all. I was in a little "convoy" of cars for the first half of it. I stopped about 3/5 of the way in, when we hit the California border. I suddenly felt happy, at peace, and didn't mind driving alone in the dark (the convoy had moved on). I kept it slow, 30 or 40mph. I didn't meet many other vehicles. There was one biker, going very slowly through Patrick Creek...I think he was just travelling locally.

This, very remote, part of California is very beautiful. Okay, it was dark, but I felt like I was up in the Sierra Nevada. It smelled like a cross between that, and perhaps the Russian River area, much further south. I felt at home here. It's good to be back in "my" state!

The last bit of US-199, before it joins US-101, you pass through a magnificent grove of redwoods. This is the original Redwood Highway. I was gasping as I went past these giant sentinals by the side of the road. It was as if these ancient living ancestors to the past, were silently welcoming me home to California.

I fortunately never hit any rain all the way. It had been raining in a couple of places, but had passed by the time I got there.

I eventually got to 101, and a couple or three miles after that, I was in Crescent City, in Del Norte County. I checked in, went to Denny's for late-night "dinner." Then I came back and wrote this!

Tomorrow, we head down the coast....and home.

Onwards!

Jasper, Alberta, to Bellingham, Washington, USA (Thursday, August 26th, 2010)

Day 34 - 511 miles

NOTE: Low bandwidth. Better photos to follow.

Today was a very difficult day driving. It was hands-down the worst weather I've ever driven in. I've said that before on this trip, and I don't like using superlatives, for fear of tempting fate. "Oh! You thought that was bad? You wanna see what I've really got in store for you?!!" Or something along those lines.

Suffice to say, it was both the worst rain, and the worst wind I've ever been in on a bike, probably a car too. It seemed to get worse and worse. There were also signs warning, "Winterlike Weather Conditions - Expect Snow and Ice." I didn't stop to take pictures, as the visibility was so poor, I was afraid I'd get run over by a truck.

Speaking of...there are a lot of trucks on the highways in Canada. Some of them are even bigger than the ones in the States. They seem to allow - perhaps only in rural areas, I don't know - trucks with THREE trailers. Also, you see many with two, but they are two BIG trailers, not the smaller ones you see in double rigs in the States. These guys are pulling full-size trailers behind them.

It is no fun passing out these bastards. Nor is it fun when they are coming the other way. The "blast" from them is phenomenal. It is much, much worse when the weather is windy and gusty. The trucks and rigs amplify the gusts. It's terrible. When you add torrential rain into the mix, your visibility goes right down, especially when the trucks are throwing up mountains of water behind them.

At one point, I was getting kind of scared, coming over a very high pass in British Columbia (BC). I'd read the warning signs mentioned earlier, and now, alongside the torrential rain, I was starting to see snow on the nearby ledges, only a few hundred feet above.

Today was also one of my biggest drives. Over 500 miles.

We finally got out of the mountains, and down onto the flat for the run into Vancouver. I would be turning off before then, to cross the border around Abbotsford/Sumas. I was headed for my friend Lurene's house, in Bellingham, in the good ol' US of A.

I took a few pictures at the border crossing (I'll post later), and my bike parked in "no man's land" raised the ire of the US border guard. However, he was a nice enough fellow, and chatted a bit, as he went through the normal procedures. He was a welcome change from the Gestapo going into Canada a few days previous. It was good to be back across the border, although I've left a bit of my heart in Canada, I think.

The weather had cleared up nicely, and it was a cautious but enjoyable ride along a fairly remote country road into the town of Bellingham.

I'll rest up here for a day or two, then it'll be the final push down the coast for home.

Onwards!